How To Make A DIY Log Store And 4 Reasons You Need One!

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I wanted to share with you guys a recent project that my very talented hubby built for me. This Diy Log Store was built, painted and filled, all in the space of 1 day! Take a look at the build from start to finish, along with some easy step by step instructions…

‘Honey ? Will you build me…’

He had to know it was coming! Once the Woodburner stove was installed in the dining room– it really was only a matter of time ;O) If my husband doesn’t know me by now, he never will!

The easiest thing to do, would be to buy a Log Store…but where’s the fun in that? I wanted a large Log Store that would fit in a fairly small space, and it had to be made from lovely chunky timbers!

Good quality Log Stores can be a little pricey! The one I had my eye on would have cost me £500! Way too much for me, there was zero chance of me paying 500 quid for a log store! I put pencil to paper, drew a little sketch, and gave it to my husband.

It’s my Dad’s fault!

My Husband often tells my Dad, that my love for DIYing is all his fault! I grew up in a home with a very capable father, he could turn his hand to anything! And I, from my formative years, right up to adulthood have watched him build and DIY to perfection for 4 decades now.

I guess you could say, it instilled in me a self-sufficient determination. My whole deal is…’Why pay someone to do something, when you can do it yourself ?’ I have never had a Decorator, Plumber, Tiler, floor fitter, kitchen fitter, bathroom fitter or Gardener in my home. And for as long as we are fit, healthy and able, I never will!

My Husband and I split the DIY duties equally. Projects requiring Power tools, heavy lifting, heights and plumbing…him! Wallpapering, Painting, Decorating and carpet fitting...me! We make a good team!

Why Do You Need a log Store?

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1. Protection from the Elements

In the summer, piling wood up in the corner of the garden may be fine. But come winter and the inevitable UK weather, you will want to shield your wood from the rain and wind. Dry Wood Burns better…

To achieve efficient and clean burning, your logs or firewood should be properly ‘seasoned’, make the most of the sun’s natural drying power and store your logs in a wood store to maintain an ideal moisture level.

Before burning, use a wood moisture meter, the optimal moisture content for firewood should be around 15-20%.

2. It’s Good For The environment

Dry wood not only burns more efficiently, but it also produces less harmful emissions and smoke. Keeping your firewood dry helps to support your health and the health of the environment.

3. Prevents rotting

A good wood store doesn’t just look pretty, it has to be practical too! Adequate ventilation is crucial to prevent mould forming and avoiding rot. My Log Store has plenty of ventilation via an open front, gapped base and open back, it allows for plenty of air circulation which in turn facilitates the wood drying process.

4. They Look fabulous!

Come on! You can’t deny It…they look bloody fabulous don’t they?! It’s one of my favourite things in the garden! Its purpose may be for practical reasons, but it doesn’t have that utility look…very country/cottage garden!

Worried about Pests in your Log pile?

Plant some lavender, chives or mint by your Log store. Not only will it keep the pests away, but it will add a little greenery and scent to the area.

How To Build A DIY Log Store

I had only two Jobs, on Build the Log store day! Make the Tea & take the occasional picture! I didn’t hover or offer opinion, I just kept my giddy ass out of the way!

My Husband needs quiet when DIYing, mistakes tend to happen when there is too much conversation! And I really don’t want to be responsible for that ;o) I simply told him the length, depth and height I wanted it to be, and then buggered off!

So, from start to finish, this whole project is credited to my lovely fella!

** For reference, the dimensions of my DIY log store are: 240 cm long x 62cm depth x 145 cm tall- sloping down to 120cm tall.

1. Lots Of Timber!

Time for a trip to the local timber yard to pick up a van load of wood!

We bought:

2.4 metre lengths of 4″ x 2″ tanalised timber for the upright sections.
2.4 metre lengths of 3″ x 2″ tanalised timber for the lower base/ bottom section frame
2.4 metre lengths of 2″ x 1″ tanalised timber for the base battens
2.4 metre lengths of 6″ x 1″ tanalised fascia boards
Feather edge tanalised boards for the roof and sides

2. Get The tools out

For this build my husband used …lots of Wood screws! A circular saw, Handsaw, Impact Drill, straight edge, set square, tape measure and pencil!

3. Measure, cut and Build the frame

The first job, was to create the frame. I wanted a sloping roof on my Log store and I needed it to fit flush against the wall in a “lean to” fashion. Bearing this in mind, the back would have to be higher than the front, see the pictures below for a visual…

The frame consisted of 4″ x 2″ tanalised timber for the upright and top sections and 3″ x 2″ tanalised timber for the lower base/ bottom section of the frame.

4. Fit the Feather Boards & Fascia Boards

Our local timber yard were out of the extra long feather boards, so we had to settle for smaller boards and install them on the roof of the log store in 2 block sections, see below…

Starting from the bottom, screw the feather board to the frame and work your way upwards, slightly overlapping the boards as you go.
*In our case,we had to finish off the roof with a thin piece of timber down the middle to hide the meeting of the 2 sections. But if you have timber lengths that don’t need cutting, then the thin piece of timber obviously won’t be necessary.
Fill the open sides of the frame with feather boards cut to size. Like the roof, slightly overlap each board.
To neaten up, attach fascia boards to the front and sides running flush with the roof

5. Attach extra Feet and base Battens

The Log Store needs to hold a fair amount of weight, so with leftover offcuts from the frame, we fashioned several little legs to offer some extra support.
For the Batten Base, we cut some small 2″ x 1″ tanalised timber lengths to size and screwed them to the base, leaving 2″ between each batten (this creates good ventilation and avoids wood rotting).

6. Paint and Protect

Once built, you’ll want to protect it! We kept it simple and applied a coat of Ronseal Charcoal Grey to the roof and some natural wood stain for the sides